Israel means many things to many people. For millions of travellers around the world, this is the ‘Holy Land’, spiritually sacrosanct for the three great monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. Archaeology buffs, eco-tourists and beach bums all find their own reasons to visit. For others, Israel evokes images of war, suicide bombings and broken peace treaties. However you view the country; Israel is an undeniably beautiful slice of the world, with alternating scenes of sea, desert, ancient towns and verdant nature reserves.
Israel’s past
Weeding through Israel’s convoluted history is both exhilarating and exhausting. There are crumbling temples, ruined cities, abandoned forts and hundreds of places associated with the Bible. One minute you’re snooping around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the next you’re amid dancing rabbis at the Western Wall. A short itinerary will leave you breathless. And while a sense of adventure is required, most sites are safe and easily accessible.
Urban centres
Israel’s three big cities each have a distinct character and atmosphere. Jerusalem is forever holy and the domain of the ultra-religious. In Tel Aviv you’re more likely to spot latte-sipping liberals, internet entrepreneurs and late-night ravers. Haifa has a gritty industrial feel but, as the world centre for the Baha’i faith, it has an added complexity making it all the more intriguing. From the Dead Sea to the sea grottoes at Rosh HaNikra, there is plenty to see in between.
Israel’s people
Most of all, Israel is about its incredibly diverse population. Jews come from all over the world to live here while about 20% of the population is Arab. Politics are hard to get away from in Israel as everyone has an opinion on how to move the country forward – with a ready ear you’re sure to hear opinions from every side of the political spectrum.
Israel means many things to many people. For millions of travellers around the world, this is the ‘Holy Land’, spiritually sacrosanct for the three great monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. Archaeology buffs, eco-tourists and beach bums all find their own reasons to visit. For others, Israel evokes images of war, suicide bombings and broken peace treaties. However you view the country; Israel is an undeniably beautiful slice of the world, with alternating scenes of sea, desert, ancient towns and verdant nature reserves.
Israel’s past
Weeding through Israel’s convoluted history is both exhilarating and exhausting. There are crumbling temples, ruined cities, abandoned forts and hundreds of places associated with the Bible. One minute you’re snooping around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the next you’re amid dancing rabbis at the Western Wall. A short itinerary will leave you breathless. And while a sense of adventure is required, most sites are safe and easily accessible.
Urban centres
Israel’s three big cities each have a distinct character and atmosphere. Jerusalem is forever holy and the domain of the ultra-religious. In Tel Aviv you’re more likely to spot latte-sipping liberals, internet entrepreneurs and late-night ravers. Haifa has a gritty industrial feel but, as the world centre for the Baha’i faith, it has an added complexity making it all the more intriguing. From the Dead Sea to the sea grottoes at Rosh HaNikra, there is plenty to see in between.
Israel’s people
Most of all, Israel is about its incredibly diverse population. Jews come from all over the world to live here while about 20% of the population is Arab. Politics are hard to get away from in Israel as everyone has an opinion on how to move the country forward – with a ready ear you’re sure to hear opinions from every side of the political spectrum.
Israel is on the eastern Mediterranean, bordered by Lebanon and the Syrian Arab Republic to the north, the Palestine National Authority (West Bank) and Jordan to the east, and Egypt to the south. Gaza, a small coastal strip between Israel and Egypt, is claimed by the by the Palestine National Authority, but under de facto rule by the militant group Hamas.
Although only the size of Wales or Massachusetts, Israel contains a great variety of terrain and four climate zones. The north of the country is the fertile hill region of Galilee, rising to Mount Hermon and Golan in the northeast. The fertile Plain of Sharon runs along the coast, while inland, parallel to the coast, is a range of hills and uplands with relatively barren stony areas to the east. The country stretches southwards through the Negev Desert to Eilat, a resort town on the Red Sea. The Great Rift Valley begins beyond the sources of the River Jordan in the north and extends south through the Dead Sea (the lowest point in the world), into the Red Sea, continuing on into Eastern Africa. Israel’s largest freshwater lake, the Kinneret (also known the Sea of Galilee) is an important source of drinking water for the country.
Israelis are usually very informal but with the European style of hospitality. Israelis are typically blunt and direct in speech, which should not be misinterpreted as rudeness. Visitors should observe normal courtesies when visiting someone’s home and should not be afraid to ask questions about the country as most Israelis are happy to talk about their homeland, religion and politics. The expression shalom (‘peace’) is used for hello and goodbye. Dress is casual, but in the holy places of all religions modest attire is worn. For places such as the Western Wall, male visitors are given a smart cardboard yarmulke (skull cap) to respect the religious importance of the site. Businesspeople are expected to dress smartly, or at least in smart casual style, although ties are often not worn, while the most expensive of restaurants and nightclubs may expect a similar standard. If formal evening wear is required this will be specified on invitations. It is considered a violation of Shabbat (Sabbath, on Saturday) to smoke on that day. There is usually a sign to remind the visitor of this, and to disregard the warning would be regarded as discourteous.
Things to do include
Dead Sea mud therapy
The mud at Dead Sea spa resorts is renowned for its health-giving properties. Go there to slather yourself in it. It’s impossible to sink in this ‘sea’, which is in fact an inland lake with intensely salty, mineral-rich water, lying at the lowest point on earth.
Mea She’arim
Jerusalem’s Mea She’arim district is home to Israel’s largest community of strictly observant Orthodox Jews who keep all their East European dress and traditions alive. Go there for a stroll and it’ll feel like you’re in pre-war Europe.
Eat fresh fish
The traffic-free centre of Jaffa, the oldest working port in the world, on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, is the place to tuck in to freshly caught fish. Head to one if the many seafront restaurants.
Markets
Fling yourself into Tel Aviv’s fascinating Shuk HaCarmel, or Carmel Market, brimming with spices, fresh produce, cut flowers and trinkets galore. In Jerusalem, haggle for anything from bargain souvenirs to real gold jewellery at open-fronted Arab stores along the Street of the Chain, the main market street in the Old City. Side turnings lead into even more exotic market streets.
Desert tour
A trip into the Negev desert is a must-do. There are tours by jeep, on foot or on horseback from the desert town of Mitzpe Ramon and from the Red Sea resort of Eilat.
Coral reefs
The waters off Eilat are rich in coral and perfect for some underwater sightseeing. Scuba or snorkel on underwater trails, take a submarine tour, or just marvel at the scene through the windows of the Eilat’s amazing Underwater Observatory.
Western Wall
The mighty stones of the Western Wall in Jerusalem are worn smooth by millennia of devotional caresses. You can post a prayer to God by pushing a note between the stones. Make another visit on Friday evening to watch the throngs of people singing and dancing at the beginning of Shabbat.
Orchestral shows
Go to a performance by the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra, or the New Israel Opera, or one of several other great orchestras in Tel Aviv which draw audiences from all over the world.
Via Dolorosa
The Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem’s Old City. It traces the traditional path Jesus walked from judgment to crucifixion. The nine ‘stations’ along the route lead to five more in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Kibbutzim
These intriguing quasi-socialist communities can be found all over Israel. Many have good facilities for tourists so you can become acquainted with kibbutz life by visiting, or perhaps staying in, one.
National parks and reserves
Israel has over 50 national parks and nature reserves, such as Hurshat Tal, Gamla Reserve and Ahziv National Park. As well as a wealth of flora and fauna, many are home to historic sites.
Beaches
There are plenty of sandy, well-equipped beach resorts where you can sail, surf, swim or waterski or just sunbathe either at Eilat on the Red Sea, along the Mediterranean or even in Tel Aviv minutes from the city centre.
Hezekiah’s Tunnel
The spooky Hezekiah’s Tunnel, a 500m (1,649ft) underground passage, looks like the perfect set for an Indiana Jones film. The tunnel serves to bring spring water to the Pool of Siloam, mentioned in the Bible as the place where Jesus healed a blind man. You’ll need shorts, sandals and a strong flashlight.
Things to see
Jerusalem’s Old City is entered through the impressively fortified Jaffa Gate. David’s Tower History of Jerusalem Museum, on the right, is a must. Its brilliant displays vividly tell the history of the city. The rooftop gives a glorious vista towards Temple Mount. Explore the distinct bustling market streets, shopping lanes and quiet back alleys of the four very different Old City Quarters – Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian.
Dome of the Rock
The intricately beautiful glorious Dome of the Rock stands high on Temple Mount (Har HaBayit in Hebrew, Haram esh-Sharif in Arabic) in Jerusalem and is spiritually significant for both Jews and Muslims.
Western Wall Plaza
Encounter Jewish faith and resilience in the immense, animated Western Wall Plaza, below Temple Mount. Go on a Western Wall tunnel tour, which takes you to portions of the wall now buried deep beneath the city.
Jerusalem Archaeological Park
The newly reconstructed Hulda Steps, once the main entrance to the Temple, are in the Jerusalem Archaeological Park, a few paces from Western Wall Plaza. Its Davidson Center includes a virtual reconstruction of a visit to the Temple 2,000 years ago.
Wohl Archaeological Museum
Fascinating 2,000-year-old homes have been excavated at the Wohl Archaeological Museum – Herodian Quarter. Six cool, spacious villas and a mansion can be toured, each with a ritual bath decorated in ceramic tiles and collections of household antiquities on display.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Experience Christianity at its most profound, at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, traditionally believed to be the site of the Crucifixion. A complex of different shrines, it is the heart of the Christian Quarter.
Yad Vashem
Six million Jewish people were murdered in the Holocaust. Pay tribute to them with a visit to Yad Vashem, Israel’s official memorial. The extensive site contains many separate sights and museums – all are deeply moving.
Israel Museum
The Israel Museum (www.imj.org.il), the country’s principal collection of its archaeology and ancient art, houses some of the world’s most impressive archaeological discoveries. These include the Dead Sea Scrolls, at the Shrine of the Book.
Museum of the Jewish Diaspora
Music, textiles, reconstructions and film footage at the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora (www.bh.org.il) convey the cultural diversity of the Jewish people during the 2,000 years of worldwide diaspora.
Jaffa and Eretz Israel Museums
Learn about the 3,000-year history of Jaffa (the world’s oldest commercial port) and the city of Tel Aviv (one of the world’s newest cities) at the small Jaffa Museum and the vast Eretz Israel Museum (www.eretzmuseum.org.il).
Caesarea
Have fun while learning about Israel’s kaleidoscope of history at the fascinating seafront ruins of Caesarea (www.caesarea.org.il), once a great Roman city, with later Byzantine and Crusader sections. Wander marked paths or visit the Caesarea Experience multimedia presentation.
Kinneret (Galilee) and Nazareth
The beautiful Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) is surrounded by Christian sites such as Capernaum, Cana, and the Mount of Beatitudes. Nearby is Jesus’ home town, Nazareth, now the largest Arab city in Israel.
Masada (Mezada)
There are breathtaking views of the Dead Sea, the Negev Desert and the mountains of Moab from the ruins of the Palace of King Herod high on the ridge of Masada (Mezada), where Jews fighting Romans made their last stand.
Dead Sea Scrolls
The Dead Sea Scrolls, hailed as the greatest manuscript discovery of modern times, were written by the Essene scribes of Qumran. You can visit their enigmatic site among the caves where the scrolls were discovered by a Bedouin shepherd boy in ancient pottery jars in 1947.
